Water Heater Repair Basics

Water Heater

Homeowners often put little thought into their water heater until it stops working. Without a functioning unit, hot showers are out of the question and dishes and laundry are left unwashed.

First, check the power supply, including a gas water heater’s pilot light and circuit breaker. If the problem persists, contact a professional plumber for Water Heater Repair Provo.

1. Thermostat

Your water heater is an essential part of your home that you rely on for showering, laundry, dishwashing and more. So if your hot water heater begins acting up, it can be a major inconvenience. And if the problem is severe, it may require replacement rather than repair.

Several different things can cause your water heater to not produce enough hot water. For example, the thermostat setting may be wrong. If the dial is set to too low a temperature, it will not be able to provide you with hot water. The other possible issue is that your water heater is undersized for the size of your family. Fortunately, this is an easy fix by replacing the unit with one of a larger capacity.

If you notice a pool of water on or around your water heater, it is likely due to a leak in the tank. This can be fixed by turning off the power to your water heater, draining it and tightening the inlet and outlet valves with a wrench.

Another common water heater issue is that the heating elements are faulty. The lower heating element typically causes the most problems, as it is responsible for producing hot water. If you notice that your water is smelling strange or appearing discolored, it may indicate an issue with your water source. Lastly, if your hot water heater is taking longer to get hot, it could be because the thermostats are faulty.

To check if the thermostats are faulty, first turn off the power to your water heater in your service panel. Turn off the water supply to your heater as well and then drain your water heater by opening the pressure relief valve located on the bottom of the tank. Next, remove the access panel and check the heat settings on both of the thermostats. Ideally, they should be set to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. If they aren’t, simply adjust them using a flathead screwdriver. You should also note that the thermocouple is located on top of the tank, so you will need to be careful when handling it as it is combustible.

3. Dip Tube

Though seemingly unremarkable, the dip tube plays a pivotal role in water heater function. Crafted typically from plastic or corrosion-resistant metal, the dip tube extends down to near the bottom of the tank and channels incoming cold water to its base for heating. This strategic delivery prevents rapid mixing between cold and hot water and promotes efficient heating by maintaining temperature stratification in the tank.

However, the cyclical process of heating and cooling water subjects the dip tube to thermal expansion and contraction, weakening its materials over time. This repeated stress can contribute to dip tube failure. Additionally, impurities in the tank and water can accelerate deterioration. Inspecting the anode rod and regularly testing your water for pH levels and mineral content can help to mitigate these factors.

The first sign of a dip tube problem is usually a sudden decline in hot water temperature or pressure. It can also be accompanied by rumbling or banging sounds from the water heater, which indicate that the unit is struggling to distribute water properly. Draining and flushing the tank can often reveal sediment and debris that clogs the dip tube.

To replace a faulty dip tube, shut off the power or gas to your tank and open the drain valve port on the top of the tank. Drain the tank completely and disconnect the old dip tube from its inlet port nipple, being careful not to break it or contamination the tank with the contents. Connect the new tube to its inlet port nipple, then refill the tank and restore power or gas. After checking for any cracks, turn the power or gas back on and enjoy your hot shower. While the replacement process is relatively simple, most homeowners should consider calling a professional plumber for this job to ensure it is completed correctly and safely. This ensures the safety of you and your family, and helps to protect the long-term performance of your water heater. A plumber will also be able to inspect the entire unit, identifying any additional repairs or maintenance that may be necessary.

4. Pressure Valve

A water heater’s pressure valve is designed to protect it from overpressure. These control valves are available in a variety of configurations, but the core feature is a loaded spring that pushes a disc or poppet against a valve seat. This creates a tight seal under normal operating conditions, but when system pressure exceeds the setpoint, the spring forces the disc to lift from the seat. This rapidly opens the valve and releases excess pressure, restoring balance within the system.

If you notice a pool of water around your water heater, shut off the gas supply and contact a plumber immediately. This problem could indicate a cracked or disconnected hose, which can lead to water damage and even mold growth in your home.

A rumbling, popping or whining noise coming from your water heater could mean it’s boiling over. This is due to sediment build-up in the tank, which can cause the bottom of the tank to overheat. To fix this, have a plumber replace the anode rod. The anode rod is a metal rod in the center of the tank that attracts oxygen, which corrodes the anode rod rather than the tank itself.

An odor of sulfur in your hot water can be caused by the presence of sulfate reducing bacteria, which converts sulfate (SO4) into hydrogen sulfide gas (H2S). If you notice this problem, have your plumbing professional drain and flush your water heater. The procedure takes about an hour, and the H2S is safely pumped to the sewer.

A faulty thermocouple, which controls the pilot flame on a gas water heater, can cause the appliance to overheat. This can lead to a combustible fire or explosion, so it’s important to have this device tested and replaced if necessary. The test requires turning off the gas supply, which is usually a large knob at the top of your water heater. Be sure to wear a mask when handling the combustible gas, and turn the knob counterclockwise to align with the ‘Off’ setting. It’s also a good idea to disconnect your gas supply line, which is usually located in a small pipe at the top of the water heater.